Cosmetic & Skincare Ingredients A-Z: Comedogenic Ratings & Safety Guide

A nutrient-dense oil from Moroccan argan trees, rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid and tocopherols.

A naturally occurring acid that treats acne, rosacea and pigmentation simultaneously. The most pregnancy-safe active for acne treatment.

A gentle keratolytic and soothing agent that calms irritation and softens roughness without exfoliating aggressively.

A botanical hydrator with anti-inflammatory and wound-healing benefits. Soothes sunburn, irritation and post-procedure skin.

A third-generation retinoid available over the counter (in the US, UK and EU) at 0.1%. Targets acne with less irritation than tretinoin.

An over-the-counter antibacterial that kills C. acnes bacteria and reduces inflammation. Often the first-line treatment for inflammatory acne.

A gentler alternative to propylene glycol. Acts as a humectant, solvent and texture enhancer.

A volcanic clay that absorbs sebum and impurities. The active ingredient in detoxifying clay masks.

A waxy, fatty alcohol blend that emulsifies oil and water and gives creams their thick, velvety texture. Despite the name, it does not dry skin.

A rich, semi-solid plant oil high in saturated fats. Effective on the body and hair but notorious for clogging facial pores.

A lightweight, refined fraction of coconut and palm fatty acids. Despite its origin, it is far less comedogenic than whole coconut oil.

A fatty alcohol used as an emulsifier and emollient. Provides a soft, smooth feel to creams and lotions.

Lipid molecules that make up roughly 50% of the skin's outer barrier. Topical ceramides replace what's lost through ageing, over-cleansing or inflammation.

A botanical with proven anti-inflammatory, wound-healing and antioxidant properties. The hero of K-beauty 'Cica' creams.

An amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut. Used as a milder co-surfactant to soften the harshness of stronger cleansing agents.

A thick, viscous oil rich in ricinoleic acid. Used as an emollient, conditioner and the base of oil cleansing methods.

A breathable silicone that forms a smooth, flexible film on the skin, locking in moisture and giving products their silky glide.

A synthetic ester from palm oil and 2-ethylhexanol. Lightweight emollient with a dry, powdery finish — but rated 4/5 comedogenic in patch tests.

The smallest AHA molecule, derived from sugarcane. It exfoliates the surface of the skin to reveal smoother, brighter, more even-toned skin.

The most studied humectant in skincare. Draws water into the skin, supports barrier function and is suitable for every skin type.

A powerhouse humectant that draws moisture from the air into the skin, holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

A potent tyrosinase inhibitor — the most effective ingredient for treating melasma and hyperpigmentation.

A synthetic ester used to give products a dry, non-greasy slip. Despite its pleasant feel, it is one of the most pore-clogging ingredients in cosmetics.

A synthetic ester used to give creams and lotions a dry, silky slip. Highly comedogenic — best avoided in leave-on facial products if you are acne-prone.

Technically a liquid wax ester rather than a true oil. Its molecular structure is almost identical to human sebum.

The gentlest cosmetic clay. Mild oil absorption suitable for sensitive and combination skin.

A fungal-derived tyrosinase inhibitor that fades pigmentation. A gentler alternative to hydroquinone.

A waxy substance secreted by wool-bearing animals. Extremely effective at sealing in moisture but a common contact allergen.

A gentle AHA derived from fermented sugars or milk. Larger molecule than glycolic acid, making it less irritating but still effective.

A highly purified petroleum-derived oil. Despite popular myths, cosmetic-grade mineral oil is one of the safest, most non-comedogenic occlusives available.

The largest and gentlest AHA, derived from bitter almonds. Particularly suited to darker skin tones and rosacea-prone skin.

A multi-tasking form of Vitamin B3 that reduces sebum, fades pigmentation, strengthens the moisture barrier and calms redness.

A semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons that forms an exceptional moisture barrier — the gold standard occlusive in dermatology.

Converts to Vitamin B5 in the skin. A humectant, soothing agent and barrier-repair active in one molecule.

A small humectant and solvent that helps actives penetrate the skin. Very common in serums and toners.

A broad-spectrum preservative that prevents bacterial, yeast and mould growth. The most widely used paraben alternative.

A Vitamin A derivative that accelerates cell turnover, boosts collagen and is the gold-standard ingredient for reducing wrinkles and acne.

A linoleic-acid-rich oil that brightens, evens tone and supports collagen. A natural source of trans-retinoic acid precursors.

An oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates into pores to dissolve sebum, dead skin and the plugs that cause blackheads and acne.

A stable, saturated oil that mimics the skin's natural sebum. Modern squalane is derived from sugarcane or olives, not sharks.

A rich, vitamin-packed plant butter from the African shea tree. Deeply emollient and softening, it's a classic ingredient for dry, mature and sensitive skin.

A saturated fatty acid that thickens and stabilises creams. Naturally present in shea butter and cocoa butter.

The salt form of hyaluronic acid. Smaller, more stable and faster to penetrate the upper layers of the skin.

A harsh anionic surfactant that produces dramatic foam. Strips the skin barrier and worsens conditions like eczema and rosacea.

An ethoxylated surfactant — milder than SLS but still potentially drying. Common in shampoos and body washes.

A keratolytic and antimicrobial. One of the oldest acne treatments still in use, particularly effective for inflammatory acne and rosacea.

A fat-soluble antioxidant that protects skin lipids from oxidative damage and stabilises formulations against rancidity.

A potent essential oil with antibacterial and antifungal properties — comparable to 5% benzoyl peroxide for spot treatment when used correctly.

The prescription gold-standard retinoid. The active form of Vitamin A — no conversion required by the skin.

A natural moisturising factor (NMF) component that hydrates at low concentrations and exfoliates at high concentrations.

An astringent botanical extract. Useful for very oily or congested skin but can be over-drying due to high tannin content.

A mineral UV filter that physically reflects and scatters both UVA and UVB light. The most pregnancy-safe and reef-safe sunscreen active.